Here we are in October - Spring has well and truly sprung; and hasn't it been lovely to enjoy the sunshine?  I'm not sure where the years go to - but this October marks TWENTY ONE YEARS that Paul & I have been in business.  Quite a milestone, I'm sure you'd agree!  But THANK YOU for being part of the journey - without our loyal customers and our fabulous team members, we never would have made it this far.  

Speaking of fabulous team members - WE ARE HIRING!  We have a vacancy for a retail star approx 30+ hours/week.
For details - see the job listing on Seek.

Around this time of year the Nyoongar season transitions to Kambarang - the season of birth.  The wildflowers are abundant, many native animals are rearing their young (it's magpie swooping season!), and we're starting to experience some warmer weather.  It's a lovely time to get out into the local bush and see what you can find.  Be on the lookout for reptiles though - as they're emerging with the warmth.  SPRING - It's a busy time in the garden & it's super busy at GLSC - so thank you for your patience if you're coming in to store or organising a delivery.

This October we'll be at the Perth Garden Festival (27-30th October) at Langley Park in the city.  Look for us at Stand #19.  We'll have mushroom farms, worm castings, and various minerals & amendments available; along with information and displays on many more of our products and soil mixes. Come along, enjoy the day out looking at plants and garden related exhibits, and enjoy the free talks and workshops on offer - there's a very full program!  If you're looking at going - buy tickets on line to save.
This year WALDA (WA Landscape Designers Association) are offering $20 design consults - so if you need some garden inspiration, this is your opportunity to speak with a designer and get some fabulous ideas; for a bargain price! You must book a timeslot though - see link for more information . I serve on the WALDA committee - and I know how excited the designers are to bring their expertise and share it with you. 

Speaking of inspiration; we hope this month's newsletter will get you itching to be in the garden.
We hope to see YOU soon @ The Green Life Soil Co.

Linda & the team.

PS:  VOTE for us - PLEASE!!!

Vote for us - we need your help.  The Green Life Soil Co is once again nominated in the Australian Organic Consumers' Choice Awards.  We've won it in 2018, 2020 - so let's hope we can do it again in 2022.  Please click on the link:https://www.organicweek.net.au/core/organic-consumer-choice-awards/online-voting/ and then select "Organic Specialist" to cast your vote.  Hurry - voting closes midnight (AEDST) 13th October.

THANK YOU!

In this newsletter:

Jobs to do in the October Garden
What to Plant NOW
The (Almost) A-Z of Soil Nutrition
Comfrey - the superhero of herbs!
Photo competition winner
VIP Special Offer
Retailer update

Jobs to do in the October garden

• Weeds- Many are going to seed at this time. Time to rip these babies out or even slash them, whatever action you choose will help to minimise spread.  See our fact sheet on organic weed control here.
• Seed Raising- It's time to start your summer vegie seeds.  Keep an eye on your seedlings at this time of year when temperatures are fluctuating; keep seedling trays/pots warm & watered.  If planting out directly in garden beds, patience is important.  Things can take a while until conditions are ideal for germination.  See our fact sheet here for tips & tricks for sowing from seed.
• Fertilising- If you haven’t already fed your fruit trees, this is a great time to do so! Adding some organic matter like compost or manures or our General Concentrate will help improve the soil and give it new life.  See our fact sheet on soil improvement here. 
• Mulching- Mulching the entire the garden can be a big job, start now while the weather isn’t steaming hot and while the ground still has moisture. Two of our popular mulches are our Recycled Tree Prunings or our Econo mulch (darker, partially composted).  Also consider our 3-way mulch if you're looking for mulch to feed and protect perennial plants in one fell swoop!  For vegie gardens, we have pea straw, wheat straw, and bagged mulches like lupin mulch, sugar cane mulch and Whoflungdung (certified organic). Need advice?  Call us!  Or check out our range of mulches here.
• Fruit Trees- At this time of year it is important to keep an eye on flowering and fruiting trees. If you have fruit fly in your area, start netting those trees now - as soon as fruit has set! (We sell insect netting packs @ GLSC).   It's almost your last chance to deal with citrus gall wasp - adults will be emerging & breeding and laying eggs again.  Sticky traps in your trees may help with control.  Make sure you use a protective sleeve around the traps to stop small birds getting stuck on the traps, and remember to remove them in a few weeks once the CGW season moves on.  Traps will also catch pollinators and beneficial insects, so don't leave them in your trees longer than necessary.  Another thing to try is our Clay Spray - superfine kaolin clay you mix with water to spray a coating on your citrus tree branches and stems.  This makes it much less attractive/easy for insects to penetrate the outer bark layer - acting like a protective barrier.
• Speaking of fruit trees - our next door neighbor Tass1 Trees is holding his Spring Auction on Saturday, 8th October. Come and grab a bargain & pick up some fabulous soil to get your trees off to a flying start!  
• Improve your soil.  Now's the time to be adding clay & biochar to help with water retention over the coming hot months.  Talk to us and we can assist you in making long term improvements to your soil's health.  Bring in a soil sample and we can check the pH, and make some recommendations on soil improvement to help your plants flourish. 
  With summer just around the corner - and bore water usage restrictions coming into play - it's never been so critical to build your soil health and have a waterwise garden.

What to Plant NOW

Check out our free 'When to Plant' guide on our website; but as a quick reference, it's time to plant:

Asian greens (Bok Choi/Tatsoi etc.) Artichoke (globe - pictured right), Basil, Beans, Beetroot, Broccoli, Capsicum, Chilli, Carrot, Celery, Celeriac, Choko, Cucumber, Eggplant, Ginger, Kale*, Kohl rabi*, Leek, Lettuce, Melons, Okra, Parsnip, Pumpkin, Radish, Rocket, Rosella, Silverbeet, Spring onion, Squash, Strawberries, Sweet corn, Sweet potato, Tomato, Turnip, Zucchini. 

* these vegies are often better grown in cooler weather; if planting now, make sure you have a protected spot (they'll bolt to seed if too hot), and watch Kale/Kohl rabi in particular for caterpillars which are more active in the warmer months - insect netting is highly recommended.

There's also HEAPS of herbs that will flourish at this time of year - Basil, Chives, Oregano, Mint, Parsley, Thyme, Sage, Comfrey, Borage - just to name a few!  Within each of these, there's multiple varieties available - so get creative and get a herb garden growing for your summer entertaining garnishes and tasty treats. You don't need a lot of space (a pot on your verandah will do!) to reap the rewards.

If you have room around your garden, add in some flowering annuals.  They'll help bring in pollinating and other beneficial/predatory insects, as well as providing colour and decoration.  At this time of year consider Alyssum, Calendula, Cosmos, Lobelia, Petunias (and as an added benefit - if you plant the white variety, their fluttering petals help confuse the cabbage butterfly!), Portulaca, Sunflowers - there's heaps more; just ask us (or your local independent nursery).

We've got heaps of fact sheets on specific vegies & growing information for Perth and WA freely available - check out our  'Learn' tab on our website.

The (Almost) A - Z of Plant Nutrition

We always talk about having healthy "nutrient dense" vegies as a result of growing in healthy soil - but what does that really mean?  There are a range of 'nutrients' - chemical elements, proteins, enzymes vitamins and minerals that we need for healthy bodily function; it's the same for all animals and plants.  And sources of those differ - so as gardeners, how do we know what we need to do with our soil?  Unfortunately without laboratory testing, it's impossible to accurately assess what is in a soil (and what's lacking) - although we can draw some conclusions by how plants grow - looking for tell tale signs of deficiency, poor growth and susceptibility to pests and diseases.

pH plays an important role in the availability of nutrients in the soil - if you'd like to understand how this works a little more, see our fact sheet here.

To understand what nutrients you're feeding your plants, check your fertiliser labels.  At a minimum, you'll see a breakdown of  'NPK' (for example).  The availability of nutrients to your plants depends on many factors, and balance is always important.  Over supply of particular nutrients can lead to toxicity and imbalance - as detrimental to plant growth as deficiencies are!  As organic gardeners, we aim to provide a range of nutrients in a variety of ways - composts, aged manures, rock minerals, fish and kelp fertilisers.  Recycling plant material (food waste, worm castings or green manure) and changing it up from time to time ensure we give our gardens a varied diet.  The advantage of this is it tends to be gentle - it's what nature has always done - it's slower than feeding with a cocktail of quick acting sulphate fertilisers; but it tends to encourage healthier soils in the long term.

Here's a brief overview of nutrients and some of what they do for plants:

Nitrogen (N)
Considered a 'Macro' nutrient - it is something all plants need for chlorophyll production - it's needed in photosynthesis; basically the plant can't survive without it.  About 80% of the air we breath is gaseous nitrogen - but very few plants are able to access it from the air.  (Legumes & some trees do this - we call them "nitrogen fixing plants".)
Nitrogen is usually provided to plants in the form of animal manures, and feather and blood meal.

Phosphorus (P)
Another 'Macro' nutrient, phosphorus is required for cell division (plant growth), photosynthesis, and assists with root formation.  It is found in animal & human waste (urine is touted to be an important future source!) and in guano (ancient deposits of bird and/or bat manure) bone meal and rock phosphate.  Phosphate is a finite resource hence the interest in recycling from waste streams.  We need to be careful in WA as our sandy soils cannot hold onto phosphorus well - it can leach into waterways causing algal blooms.  Adding clay to sandy soil helps hold onto phosphorus (and other nutrients).  But over fertilising with chicken manure in particular can actually lead to phosphorus excess in our soils. So it is a delicate balance!  It is recommended to add phosphorus sources to compost rather than directly to sandy soil. 

Potassium (K)
(The K comes from the Latin "Kalium") - K is another 'Macro' nutrient; also vital for photosynthesis and healthy cell structure - including thicker cell walls which lead to more robust plants, pest/disease resilience and fruit formation.  Because potassium is found in plants, materials made from recycling plants (ie. compost and wood ash) are good sources of potassium for our gardens.  It is found in mineral deposits, but is extracted by treatment.  Potash for gardeners is available as 'Sulphate of Potash' (SOP) or 'Muriate of Potash' (MOP). Sulphate of potash is considered superior - particularly for food crops.  MOP has a higher salt content and can 'burn' plants. 

Calcium (Ca)
Considered a 'Secondary' nutrient - still vital for plant growth, but needed in lesser quantities than a macro nutrient.  Calcium activates enzyme systems and helps with cell strength and root development.  Coastal/limestone soils tend to have an over abundance, but we have found that laterite hills soils often lack this nutrient.  Adding gypsum is our recommended way to increase calcium in your soil.

Sulphur (S)
Another 'Secondary' nutrient, Sulphur is used to form essential amino acids & enzymes required for healthy growth.  Sulphur can be used to reduce soil pH as it is an acidifier; but it's not often required to add to your soil as it's found in fertilisers and in decaying plant material (ie compost) as it's recycled.  Use with caution - it can have a detrimental affect on soil biology.

Magnesium (Mg)
Another 'Secondary' nutrient, it is a vital component of chlorophyll - required for photosynthesis.  Supplying magnesium - if it's necessary - is usually done by applying dolomite limestone; but you'll also find it in fertilisers; especially mineral based/rock dusts. 

Minor nutrients are vital for various plant functions, but they're needed in much smaller amounts again.

Iron (Fe)
Ferrum = Fe is vital in the formation of chloroplasts - the parts of the plant cells that contain chlorophyll.  Plants often lack iron due to pH imbalance in the soil. 

Manganese (Mn)
Activates metabolic reactions and assists in seed germination and growth.

Copper (Cu)
Assists with chlorophyll production and aids in cellular strength.

Zinc (Zn)
Essential in hormones which promote leaf and root growth.

Boron (B)
Used in cellular strength and development.  Assists with availability of other nutrients.

Molybdenum (Mo)
This element is the most fun to say.  It is necessary for enzyme production which assists with nitrogen uptake.

Cobalt (Co)
There's some dispute as to whether all plants need cobalt; but some do.  And it is essential for animals and the production of Vitamin B12.  Some studies show that Cobalt assists plants in taking in CO2 from the atmosphere.  Soils in the South West of WA are deficient in cobalt - farmers have to supplement the diet of grazing animals. 

Selenium (Se)
Selenium apparently isn't required by plants; but it is essential for animals (including humans).  It is taken up in varying degrees by plants, and some growers believe that it does aid healthy growth.  It is found in most oceanic products (fish emulsion, kelp), some rock dusts and strangely - Brazil nuts.

Other elements

There are other naturally occurring elements found in soil that we know are used by at least some plants, even if in minuscule amounts.  These include aluminium, sodium, vanadium, silicon, arsenic, bromine and fluorine.  Certainly things we wouldn't consider 'healthy' in any quantity - and not things we need to consider adding to the soil in our gardens!!

And then there's the elements under our nose (literally) that we never see - Carbon (C), Hydrogen (H) and Oxygen (O) - which are essential to plants but are always in abundance - provided we water our plants and don't keep them in a vacuum!

Soil nutrition can seem very complex.  How do you know what your soil might need?  You can look for deficiency symptoms in plant growth, and use a reputable guide to help you narrow down possibilities (posting photos on Facebook may or may not be helpful -  you have been warned).  A bit of sleuthing is helpful too - consider surrounding conditions, water sources, weather conditions, pest/disease options to narrow down the problem.  USUALLY assessing your soil's pH is the first step.  Then, if there are no other obvious circumstances affecting the growth of your plants, applying sensible quantities of a complete balanced fertiliser at the right time of year should help.  Laboratory testing can give you an insight into your soil - but it is only ever a snapshot in time; which is why commercial growers often do seasonal testing to keep track and to plan fertilising regimes.  

In order to build healthy soil, unless you have major issues in your garden, it is enough to continue good soil building practices and using mulch.  The quantity of organic material, the physical structure, and moisture in your soil has a direct bearing on microbial activity - which is hugely important.  While I haven't touched on it in this article, many elements are made available to plants ONLY through the activity of bacteria and fungi in the soil, and delivered via available water - so to quote Dr Paul Hepperly from the Rodale Institute:
"Many questions - one answer.  Improve the soil." 

Want to know more?

@GLSC we've recently brought in copies to sell of "Gardening Down Under".  This is a very useful Australian book written by former CSIRO soil scientist, Kevin Handreck.  The book is full of easy to understand soil information, including ways to improve soil and deal with specific soil problems, growing in pots, compost making, efficient watering - etc.  Copies are $50 and with Christmas just around the corner - why not grab one for the green thumb in your house!

Comfrey

Comfrey (Symphytum officinale) is a herbaceous perennial related to Borage - and if you're keen on making your own compost and fertiliser at home, or improving your soil generally - you should consider adding at least one plant to your garden; it's an extremely useful plant.

Comfrey has a deep root system, which is helpful in heavy soils as a pioneer plant to open up soil structure, and also as a soil stabiliser on banks or slopes.  Additionally, because of its deep roots, it is known as a 'dynamic accumulator'- as it can scavenge nutrients deeper than other plants, which it recycles into its leaves as it grows.  So, if you use the leaves in compost, liquid teas, or as a mulch, you're directly returning these nutrients to the soil and effectively recycling them.  For an easy chop & drop solution, grow Comfrey around your fruit trees.  You can trim off leaves several times a year and the plant will continue producing more.  You can even go over it with a lawn mower!

Comfrey leaves have been shown to accumulate high levels of potash, nitrogen and phosphate, as well as calcium, iron, magnesium and silica.  As dry matter, leaves can contain between 15-30% protein, making them comparable to legumes.  Comfrey can be used as a fodder plant for poultry, goats and rabbits; but feed in moderation.

Comfrey dies back in the winter time, so stop harvesting end of Autumn to allow the plant to build up reserves before dying back.  It is usually propagated by division in spring, although you can get away with division most of the year.  Drive a sharp spade through the root mass to divide it, and re-plant small pieces (about 3-5cms) into pots or spread elsewhere in the garden - ideally leaving a good half a metre between plants.  Plant growing tips a couple of centimetres below the surface, and keep moist until new leaves emerge. Comfrey can be grown from seed but it notoriously difficult to germinate; hence division is the most reliable method of propagation.  Because plants go dormant, you may find Comfrey plants difficult to find in nurseries at certain times of the year.  Stock is coming through again now - and we have plants available @ GLSC. 

Comfrey originated in Europe and naturally prefers moist spots - however it is quite tough, and will thrive in Perth as long as you improve the soil, give it a good drink at least weekly and MULCH well.  It can tolerate full sun (although leaves can wilt & burn) but part sun is more ideal.  It sends out clusters of mauve/pink flowers on spikes that appear above the foliage - up to about a metre high - in late Spring (see photo below right).  Plants can spread to about 1m wide, but regular trimming can restrict this growth.

Related to Borage, Comfrey has hairs on the leaves which can cause irritation for some people - so handle with gloves.  Comfrey has been used in herbal medicine for centuries - known as "knitbone" it is used as a poultice to assist healing of broken bones, and also bruising, swelling, minor burns, cuts & scrapes.  It is high in allantoin, a compound we can absorb through the skin which assists with cell development and easing inflammation.  (This advice is of a general nature - please consult your Doctor!).   To make a poultice, take fresh comfrey leaves and stems, wash well, and pulp in a blender.  Add a small amount of flour/cornflour as a binding agent, and spread the paste onto a clean gauze bandage or piece of cloth, and secure over the affected area with another bandage, ensuring paste is in contact with the skin.  Leave on for a few hours, then refresh.  The paste can be frozen to aid in reducing swelling (as ice does) and to store a batch for later use.  

Comfrey is a great additive to your compost - add a whole leaf as it will break down quickly; adding nutrients but also aiding decomposition of other materials.  It's often called a "compost accelerator" - although truth be told I haven't tested this folklore to see if batches mature faster.  You can also add leaves to worm farms - either shredded or whole.

Comfrey Tea (Fertiliser)

I'm sure once you've smelt comfrey "tea" you wouldn't be tempted to drink it - but let's be clear.  It's not good for you to drink - but it's fabulous for your plants!  Take a container with a lid (you will thank me re the lid) and stack as many leaves as you can into it.  Cover the leaves well with water, and leave for about four weeks.  If you can stir or agitate the container once a week it may speed up decomposition.  Once the tea is dark and leaves are sloppy, pour out the liquid, strain the mushy leaves out (bury them or add to your compost) and dilute to one part "tea" to five parts water (roughly) and use around your seedlings, pots and elsewhere in your garden.  You can apply kelp at the same time, or add the Comfrey tea into your fertiliser rotation regime.  Making your own fertiliser is a great way to save money, and save resources - and as a bonus, your garden will thrive!

Photo Competition Winner

Congratulations to Irena D. who is the winner of our monthly photo competition.  Irena has been sending in pictures for a while now - so it goes to show persistence pays off - she's this month's winner! Irena has lots of fruiting plants in her Ellenbrook garden - here's a young Mulberry tree.  She also grows banana, apple, guava, fig, moringa, passionfruit, sambung, lilly pilly - as well as picking greens and herbs - both in the ground as well as her raised planter here.

So send in a photo (or photos) of your garden with a brief note about what you're growing.  YOU might be the winner next month of a $50 store credit to spend with us @GLSC.

Photos can be submitted via email or through our Facebook page - with "photo competition" as the subject line.

Thanks again Irena and happy gardening!

VIP Special offer

It's Spring and time to feed your garden!  This month, VIP's can pick up a 3kg of our ever popular Certified Organic Blood & Bone for HALF PRICE. Normally $22, if you spend over $100 the B+B will cost you $11.  Please mention this offer to our team member if you're shopping in store or placing an order over the phone. 

Online shoppers must be logged into the VIP/members section in order to see the special pricing.

Offer valid up until COB Monday, 31st October 2022.  Valid one per customer.  VIP offer not available at the Perth Garden Festival.

Retailer Update

Please support your local independent retailer who supports us! The specialist retailers listed here will be happy to give you gardening advice and help you with our products - please call to check what lines they carry as they can't stock all of our products (but may be willing to get stock in for a custom order - if you ask nicely!).  

Garden Elegance - Subiaco 9381 2197
Guildford Town Garden Centre - Guildford 9279 8645
Harbour Plants - South Fremantle 0439967034
Hello Houseplant (Indoor Potting Mix) - Perth CBD 0421 058 923|
Kambarang Garden Centre (formerly Waldecks Bentley) - Bentley 9458 5944
Nibali Stockfeed - Hamilton Hill 9433 2211
Richo's 4 Hydro - Joondalup 9301 4462
Stanbee Stockfeeds - Barragup 9581 2390
Swan Valley Station - Swan Valley 0427 371 001
Tass1 Trees - Middle Swan 0419 988 344
Thrive Sustainability - Lower Chittering 0408 157 301
Urban Revolution - Victoria Park 6102 1068
Waldecks Kingsley - 9309 5088  (pictured right)
Waldecks Melville - 6317 0939
Waldecks Stirling - 9254 6730
Zanthorrea Nursery - Maida Vale 9454 6260

Ardess Nursery (Albany) 9842 9952
Australind Landscaping Supplies 9796 1720
Blossoms Nursery (Denmark) 9848 2014
Boyup Brook Co-op (Boyup Brook) 9765 1001
Great Northern Rural Services (Geraldton) 9964 1274
Hillview Garden Centre (Bridgetown) 9761 1672
Margaret River - Nutrient Ag Solutions 9758 7677
Soils Ain't Soils (Busselton) 97515 322

THANK YOU for being part of our Green Life family!  We hope to see you in store soon.  Check out our newsletter next month & stay up to date with our Facebook and Instagram pages for announcements, stock arrivals and general good gardening vibes!